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The Greenbrier has defined resort opulence for almost two centuries, and played a role in major wars.
Oh, Greenbrier and your brazen opulence, how to describe thee? Maybe: Oscar de la Renta’s Spring 2023 show transmogrifies into a 20th-century architectural masterpiece; or Jay Gatsby and Wes Anderson trip acid and drink cream in a dahlia-infested parlor; or even, Lilly Pulizer goes down the rabbit hole and devours “eat me” cake with a stoner’s zealotry. Really, nothing* prepares you for the Everlasting Gobstopper, breathtaking luxury of the historic Greenbrier resort.
While versions of the resort have existed since the early 19th century (and hosted reconciliation talks at the end of the Civil War), the hotel’s current central building (six floors, 250 rooms) was completed in 1913. During World War II, it served as a diplomatic detention center for German and Japanese diplomats, then later as an army hospital. After the war, the C&O Railway repurchased the hotel, and hired famed socialite interior designer Dorothy Draper to head the restoration. The lobby alone is a giant chintz altar to Draper’s bold and playful genius. Each palatial room (yes, the lobby is made up of 10 spaces) is painted a different bright color, including deep turquoise, coral and burgundy. Patterns are everywhere: from the checkerboard floor, to the diagonally striped columns, to the floor-to-ceiling floral drapes. The late designer’s firm still maintains the hotel’s decor today: they actually have a small branch office in the hotel, since the upkeep is ceaseless.
The Greenbrier hotel takes its status as a five-star resort seriously. The two doormen, dressed in identical bellhop caps, sweep open the glass doors with blasé simultaneity. A small army of uniformed staff members seem to outnumber the guests, who skew ancient, white and polo-ed. Downstairs, the hotel hosts multiple shopping galleries, restaurants and a guest-exclusive casino. And if you live on the East Coast, you can take the Amtrak straight to the Greenbrier. The White Sulphur Springs station is right in front of the resort gates. Now that’s service.
* Apart from an extended stay at Versailles.
Location
Set in the gorgeous Allegheny mountains…and atop a secret government bunker.
While the Greenbrier resort is a village unto its own, this part of West Virginia has plenty to do, especially if you enjoy being outdoors. The resort is located in White Sulphur Springs, but guests should definitely also check out nearby Lewisburg, a quaint town with plenty of cute restaurants, shops and bakeries. Set into the soft mountainous topography of the Washington and Jefferson National Forests, the area has plenty of hiking, biking and geological exploration, regardless of your athletic abilities.
While you’re visiting the area, make sure to:
- Walk (or bike) along the Greenbrier Trail, a 78-mile rail-to-trail that follows the old C&O railroad line next to the Greenbrier River. (7.5 miles, 13-minute drive)
- Tour the Greenbrier Bunker, built during the Cold War as a secret U.S. government relocation facility for Congress. The bunker tours leave from the hotel lobby, and you’ll need a reservation.
- If you’re a fan of mites and tites, definitely get lost in the Lost World Caverns, underground home to the Snowy Chandelier, a 30-ton stalactite. Extended spelunking tours of the caves are available for more adventurous souls. (12 miles, 20-minute drive)
- Throw back a pint or two at Hawk Knob Cidery. Hang out on the patio and taste their old-school, unfiltered brews, many of which are made from West Virginia apples, and fermented in used whiskey and bourbon barrels. You can also apparently fish in their stocked pond, if that’s your thing. (13 miles, 25-minute drive)
- Eat at the hip and unassuming Thunderbird Taco, where vegetarians and carnivores alike will find plenty to try in their wide range of Tex-Mex offerings. And add some margaritas to your order — it’s 5 o’clock somewhere. (9 miles, 15-minute drive)
- If you’re looking for something a little more upscale, dine at The French Goat, a sweet little house-turned-French bistro in downtown Lewisburg. It was voted best restaurant by West Virginia Living for 2023, so you can be sure everything will be hot-dish delish. Make sure to try the croque madame and the buttermilk blancmange. Reservations are required. (9 miles, 15-minute drive)
Rooms
No two rooms are decorated exactly alike at The Greenbrier — which is quite a feat, considering there are over 700 guest rooms at this resort. Each falls under the painstaking purview of Dorthy Draper designs, and has a unique combination of vibrant colors, floral patterns and bold contrasts. Oh, plus all the normal hotel room things — like a TV. And a bed.
Gable Rooms (from $289): Cozy room for two if you’re looking to enjoy the resort amenities on a budget. These rooms have a double bed, writing desk, TV, comfy armchair and Dorthy Draper floral wallpaper. Most are located in the gables of the West Virginia Wing. Note: Some previous guests have complained of slightly less detailed upkeep on these rooms.
Traditional Rooms (from $319): With either a king bed or two doubles, these rooms can accommodate up to four people. Each also includes two armchairs, TV and Draper florals out the wazoo.
Superior Rooms (from $359): These rooms also have a king or two doubles, accommodating up to four people. Each also includes a writing desk, vanity, TV and wardrobe, two armchairs and side tables and Dorthy Draper decor. Some rooms are handicapped accessible.
Deluxe Rooms (from $409): These rooms also have a king or two doubles, accommodating up to four. They have been more recently updated, and so offer more “subdued” (read: boring) and traditional decor. The bathrooms include marble features, and some rooms are handicapped accessible.
Classic Suites (from $459): The Greenbrier has a variety of suites with one or two bedrooms (sleeping four to six), plus a sitting room or parlor. All suites are flower-power enhanced with bold wallpaper, bed linens and upholstery.
Historic Suites (from $938): These suites sleep two to eight people. They also have a mixture of larger or multiple living spaces, wet bars, additional bathrooms and decorative fireplaces, terraces and can entertain up to 150 (assuming you’re an extrovert, or throwing a huge-ass wedding).
Windsor Club Suites (from $589): The Duke and Duchess of Windsor have literally slept here. Hence the name. This is where the international socialites — or exceptionally high rollers — stay. The presidential suite, for example, has its very own library and grand piano. The decor? Très White House. Keep moving, plebs.
Cottages (from $509): “Cottage” might be a little bit of a misnomer, since these swanky historic row houses contain multiple bedrooms (each with a private bath), living and dining areas, a wet bar, patio and porch.
Estate Houses (from $2,236): Damn, you fancy. Rent-a-mansion service including all of the things one might imagine, plus complimentary VIP chocolates for each bedroom. LOL.
Amenities
On-site shops, multiple bars and restaurants, a world-famous golf course, a spa and a casino allow you to live that #lux lifestyle, all without leaving the premises. Pro tip: dine out, as chic restaurants nearby will provide better fare for a fraction of the cost. If you do decide to dine in, make sure to check the dress code — if you don’t have a sports coat, you might be out of luck.
Main Dining Room
The Greenbrier’s main dining option is so posh they didn’t even bother to get creative with the name. Reviews of the food are less than complimentary, though. But there are some pretty awesome chandeliers, and if you’re underdressed, you may be turned away at the door, giving you an excuse to make a dramatic scene.
The Forum
The Forum is an Italian pizzeria, down to the checkered tablecloths. One meal here is at least a third of a plane ticket to Italy, so save your money for actual Roman street fare.
Prime 44 West
The highest rated of the Greenbrier restaurants, Prime 44 West is — you guessed it — an American steakhouse. My advice? Never trust an eatery that serves an unironic wedge.
Draper’s
Swank meets old-school diner vibes. Plus hand-painted cherubs on the ceiling. Average food for slightly-above-average prices. Ice cream is on the icy side, rather than the creamy side.
Indoor Pool
Ah, the Italianate pool that makes you feel like you’re dating Michaleangelo in an early musical dream sequence. White columns, draped fabric canopy, lounge chairs. You’re outside in Tuscany — except you’re inside.
Outdoor Pool
Infinity pool with lemon-colored umbrellas, looking out over the mountains and the golf course.
Golf
If you know golf, you know the Greenbrier. It’s the only resort course in the world to have hosted both the Ryder Cup and the Solheim Cup, with courses dating back to the early 20th century.
On-Site Shopping
There is a whole Ralph Lauren store in the basement of the Greenbrier. If that’s not a mic-drop move, I don’t know what is. Plus 30-odd other boutiques where you can buy all the Vera Bradley, gourmet candy, horse jewelry and tennis dresses your little Polly Pocket heart desires.
Fitness Center and Activity Courts
Sure, you could sign up for His & Hers training sessions at the fitness center, but you don’t come to the Greenbrier for their workout machines. Might I suggest bowling, indoor pickleball or croquet instead? Tennis pros in the know swear by the indoor hard courts and Har-Tru outdoor clay.
Casino
It’s a casino. It’s a glorified basement. It’s dark, carpeted, with lots of shiny lights and buttons. Make or break your fortune here, praying to the goddess within your gin and tonic, Lady Luck. In-Fusion, the resort’s requisite pan-Asian fusion restaurant, is located in the back.
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FAQs
Which airport is closest to the Greenbrier?
Greenbrier Valley Airport (LWB) is 15 minutes away.
What is the hotel’s address?
101 W. Main St., White Sulphur Springs, W. Va.
How far is New York City from the Greenbrier?
It’s 470 miles from NYC to the resort.
How far is Washington, D.C., from the hotel?
It’s 250 miles away.
How far is Roanoke, Va., from the Greenbrier Hotel’s address on Main Street?
It’s 82 miles to Roanoke from the hotel.
When is checkin and checkout?
Check in anytime after 4:00 p.m., check out before 12:00 p.m.
Can you tell me more about the Greenbrier services and room amenities?
Each room has Wi-Fi access, a flat-screen TV and refreshment bars. The on-site services — there are lots of outdoor activities — include a casino club, four golf courses, tennis courts, a bowling alley, an arcade, horseback riding, mountain bikes, ice skating, meeting rooms, a spa, room service and valet parking.
Is the Greenbrier considered a historical landmark?
The Greenbrier became a National Historic Landmark in 1990.
What is the Greenbrier’s falconry lesson?
The Greenbrier, which bills itself as “America’s resort,” offers falconry lessons that allow guests to experience the sport of flying trained birds of prey.
What is the Greenbrier Clinic?
Located in the Greenbrier, it’s a healthcare facility that combines a diagnostic clinic, ambulatory surgery, a family care practice and a med spa. It markets to executives and offers a membership.
Who is Sam Snead?
Sam Snead was a pro golfer on the PGA tour and the playing professional at the Greenbrier.
Was the movie “Christmas at the Greenbrier” filmed at the resort?
Yes.